Friday, July 13, 2012

Microgreens....yum!!!

For all my foodie friends, whether nutrient seekers like Kenna, veg/vegan like Britt and Nikki, a gourmet chef like Anne and April, or one like Greenhouse Tavern but can't afford it on a regular basis ..these are for YOU!!!!!

grilled beef tataki with crispy wonton and asian microgreen salad

Smoked Salmon, Poached Egg and Micro Greens


Microgreens: a Guide to Growing Nutrient Packed Greens
By: Eric Franks and Jasmine Richardson


WHY GROW MICROGREENS?
  • Minimal money, time, space needed
  • Fresh greens all year
  • Extremely nutritious
  • Strong dose of digestable:          
    • Vitamins
    • Minerals
    •  Phytonutrients
  • Concentrated nutrients
  • GREAT project for kids because you can see growth after 2-3 days!!!!
  •  Fantastic addition to any meal to give it that gourmet touch…and lots of nutrients.
SPROUTS vs. MICROGREENS vs. BABY GREENS

  • What is a sprout?
    • First stage in a seed’s development.
    • Means germination
    • Slightly opaque and crunchy texture


  • When does it become a microgreen?
    • Second stage in development
    • Establishes roots
    • Opens first leaves called cotyledons
    • Most nutritious stage
  • When does it become a baby green?
    • Tender leaves that are usually the spring mix we buy at the store
    • More flavorful and tender than a full grown head of lettuce
    • Lost some of the intensity in flavor and nutritional value of the microgreen
 
WHAT YOU NEED
  • 20x10-inch black plastic trays (about $2, but ask a nursery if they are throwing any away)
  • Soil
    • potting soil that is organic including things like worm castings, bat guano, compost etc.
    • In addition, potting soil that includes ingredients derived from the ocean such as kelp, crab meal, and shrimp meal is even better.
    • Ask the shop keepers
  • Soil Press
    • After filling your trays you need to cut a piece of cardboard into the shape of the tray to create a flat seed bed.
  • Seeds
    • Keep them cool and dry
    • Away from fluctuation in temp and moisture.
    • After planting the seeds, cover with a paper towel or a thin cotton cloth to keep the seeds warm and moist until they germinate.
  •  Lid
    • The amount this will help in germination is worth the extra money. Ask the nursery about plastic lids.
10 STEP HOW TO:
  • Step 1: Filling tray with soil
    • Fill the trays with about an inch to an inch and a half of soil.
    • Level out the soil with your hand
    • Use your soil press to flatten the soil but not compact it
  • Step 2: Sowing your seeds
    •   Take a small pinch of seeds with fingertips and sprinkle them over your tray.
    • Take your time to evenly spread them.
    • You can do one type per tray or make a mixed tray for more variety. If you mix them, use seeds that can be harvested at the same time.
  • Step 3: Covering your seeds
    • Cover with paper towel or very thin layer of soil. Paper towel keeps it warmer and moister.
    •   Keep the towel moist (not wet) until germination
  • Step 4: Initial Watering
    • Water your trays on a light spray setting so the whole tray gets gently soaked. (yes over the towel).
    • Your first water is the only time you can’t over water them. After this however, be aware they can drown.
  •  Step 5: Cover with Lid
    •  Cover with a lid if you are not growing in a green house. This will speed up the germination process by holding in heat and retaining moisture.
    • Keep in mind the germination process does not need light. Keep anywhere you would like where they can stay warm and moist.
  •   Step 6:  Watering your germinating seeds
    • Water only so the towels are moist.
    • You want your seeds to stayed covered until they are fully germinated, the towel method is great because it allows you to look at the process by lifting up a corner to check.
    • After a few days you will notice that the towels will have started to lift off the soil, giving you a hint that your greens are growing.
  • Step 7: Finding a good spot to grow
    • Now they need light. Find a sunny spot inside or outside for them to grow.
    • Depending on the type of seed (some like full light or part shade)
    • A sunny windowsill, porch ledge, or your front step
  • Step 8: Maintaining your growing greens
    • You can now remove the towel and plastic lid. If growing inside, you can flip the lid over and place underneath the tray to keep counters dry, but be sure to empty the water daily so that your soil isn’t in standing water.
    • Depending of the type of seed, it will need 7-14 days of light.
    •   Be sure all of the soil is wet…put your finger in the corner of the tray to be sure it is moist all the way down.
    • Watering once a day is usually sufficient…but don’t over water!
    • Overwatering will drown them, under watering them will wilt them. In that case, water a little more and they’ll come back to life.
  • Step 9: Harvesting
    • You can harvest right after their cotyledons open (first leaves) or wait for the second set (true leaves) of leaves to come.
    • If you leave them longer (to baby greens) they will start to rot because of how densely they are sown and the little soil
    • Harvest by cutting at the base with scissors. Grab a section loosely in one hand while cutting with the other.
    • Harvest as much or little as you want.

  •   Step 10:  Washing and Storage
    •  Rinse in cold water. Fill a large bowl, submerge greens..the seed hulls, seeds, duff, and damaged leaves will generally float to the top and you can skim them off with your hand.
    • Dry
    • Store in a Ziploc with a little air in it in the refrigerator.

 
TYPES
  • Random list of varieties:
    •  Amaranth
    •  Arugula
    • Basil
    •  Beet
    •   Broccoli
    • Purple Cabbage
    •  Celery
    •   Chard
    • Cilantro (Coriander)
    • Cress
    •   Endive
    •  Mustard
    • Pac Choi
    • Pea
    •  Radish
More info on microgreens: 

Fresh Origins - See also the microgreen's facts tab









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